クストリッツァの村を訊ねてセルビアの国境近くへと行く。
その道中で、人間の愚かさを知る。
Essay
2024.04.24
photo_Toshinori Okada
Text_Toshinori Okada
世間では“聖地巡礼” が流行っているらしい。アニメなどの大好きな作品の舞台を実際に巡る。例えば、「鬼滅の刃」ファンが「あしかがフラワーパーク」に行くとか、「天気の子」を観て千駄ヶ谷あたりをうろうろするとか。行きたい気持ちはよくわかる。自分も以前、聖地巡礼をしたことがある。
エミール・クストリッツァというボスニア・ヘルツェゴビナ出身の映画監督がいる。「アンダーグラウンド」と「パパは、出張中」でカンヌのパルム・ドールを2度受賞している。ジプシーの世界観で描かれる作品が多く、泥臭く、人間味があり、強烈な生へのエネルギーにあふれている。そんなクストリッツァの映画が自分はたまらなく好きだ。
あるとき、クストリッツァの村があることを知る。映画「ライフ・イズ・ミラクル」の舞台になった場所。クストリッツァはその村を買い取り、映画学校やレストラン、宿泊施設をつくり「KUSTENDORF」という村名を付けたという。これは行かねばならない。
「KUSTENDORF」はセルビア西部の国境近くにある。旅行のコーディネーターにお願いして現地までの足と宿を確保してもらい、わーいわーい、クストリッツァの村に行くもんね。とお気軽に出発したが。
まず、イスタンブール経由でボスニア・ヘルツェゴビナの首都サラエボに入る。そこでは、30年ほど前まで紛争が行われていた。スナイパー通りと呼ばれる通りに面して建つビルの壁には、銃痕が残っている。街角には負傷した物乞いがいる。街の周囲を囲む森には、いまも地雷が埋まっているから無闇には行かないように注意された。現地の人の話によると、隣同士で仲良くやっていた人たちが紛争を境に対立を始め、それはとても酷く、悲しかったという。さらに、サラエボからセルビアへ向かう途中、ドライバーから民族対立の辛い、リアルな話をたくさん聞くことになる。(付け加えておくと、いまのサラエボはとても楽しい街で、ぜひまた行きたいと思っている)。
帰国後、ボスニア紛争の本を読み、ユーゴスラビアの歴史や民族浄化にいたる経緯、そこにある人間の愚かさを知る。
ボスニア・ヘルツェゴビナやセルビアの負の遺産を知ると、クストリッツァの映画がこれまでと違って見えた。ナンセンスで破滅的で、笑うしかない状況設定は、出口のない悲惨な世界をやり過ごすために必要だったことがよくわかった。映画をより深く知るためにも、聖地巡礼はやってみるものだ。
Visiting the Village of Kusturica Near the Serbian Border.
Globally, people are drawn to visit locations from their favorite animes and films, like Demon Slayer fans going to Ashikaga Flower Park or exploring Sendagaya inspired by Weathering with You. For example, fans of Demon Slayer visiting Ashikaga Flower Park, or wander around Sendagaya after watching Weathering with You. Such pilgrimages resonate with many, including myself.
Emir Kusturica, a celebrated filmmaker from Bosnia and Herzegovina and two-time Palme d'Or winner for films like Underground and When Father Was Away on Business, creates works imbued with Gypsy culture, humanity, and vitality.
Learning about Kustendorf, a village Kusturica bought and developed into a cultural hub with a film school, a restaurant and accommodations after filming Life is a Miracle there, I felt compelled to visit.
Situated near Serbia's western border, Kustendorf beckoned. With arrangements for travel and accommodation handled by a coordinator, I eagerly embarked on my journey to Kusturica's village. It started with a flight to Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, via Istanbul.
In Sarajevo, signs of the conflict from three decades ago were still visible. Buildings along Sniper Street bore the scars of bullets, and wounded beggars were a common sight. The nearby forests were mined and inaccessible. Locals recounted the sad development of neighbor turning against neighbor. On the way to Serbia, the driver painted a vivid picture of the ethnic tensions. Despite this, Sarajevo today pulses with life, making me keen to return.
Back home, I immersed myself in learning about the Bosnian War and the complex history of Yugoslavia, learning about the path to ethnic cleansing and the tragic mistakes of humanity.
Now aware of the dark history of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia, Kusturica's films took on new meaning. The surreal, darkly comic scenarios depicted were a means to cope in a seemingly inescapable world. Visiting such meaning-laden locations truly enhances one's appreciation of cinematic works.
Visiting the Village of Kusturica Near the Serbian Border.
Globally, people are drawn to visit locations from their favorite animes and films, like Demon Slayer fans going to Ashikaga Flower Park or exploring Sendagaya inspired by Weathering with You. For example, fans of Demon Slayer visiting Ashikaga Flower Park, or wander around Sendagaya after watching Weathering with You. Such pilgrimages resonate with many, including myself.
Emir Kusturica, a celebrated filmmaker from Bosnia and Herzegovina and two-time Palme d'Or winner for films like Underground and When Father Was Away on Business, creates works imbued with Gypsy culture, humanity, and vitality.
Learning about Kustendorf, a village Kusturica bought and developed into a cultural hub with a film school, a restaurant and accommodations after filming Life is a Miracle there, I felt compelled to visit.
Situated near Serbia's western border, Kustendorf beckoned. With arrangements for travel and accommodation handled by a coordinator, I eagerly embarked on my journey to Kusturica's village. It started with a flight to Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, via Istanbul.
In Sarajevo, signs of the conflict from three decades ago were still visible. Buildings along Sniper Street bore the scars of bullets, and wounded beggars were a common sight. The nearby forests were mined and inaccessible. Locals recounted the sad development of neighbor turning against neighbor. On the way to Serbia, the driver painted a vivid picture of the ethnic tensions. Despite this, Sarajevo today pulses with life, making me keen to return.
Back home, I immersed myself in learning about the Bosnian War and the complex history of Yugoslavia, learning about the path to ethnic cleansing and the tragic mistakes of humanity.
Now aware of the dark history of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia, Kusturica's films took on new meaning. The surreal, darkly comic scenarios depicted were a means to cope in a seemingly inescapable world. Visiting such meaning-laden locations truly enhances one's appreciation of cinematic works.
![](/assets/images/essay/202404_1/img01.png)
a.サラエボの街。天候のせいで暗く見えるが、実際は楽しい街だった。
b.映画「ライフ・イズ・ミラクル」の舞台になった村。
![](/assets/images/essay/202404_1/img02.png)
a.サラエボのストリート。貼られているのは選挙ポスター?
b.KUSTENDORFの村に貼られていた映画祭のポスター。
c.フェリーニ通り。映画の村らしい通り名。