外国人スナックツアーに参加して、ディープな日本が好きになる。

少し重めの扉を開くと、ほんのり暗い店内のカウンター越しにママとの会話を楽しむ常連客。
昭和な空間、スナックが外国人を魅了する。

スナックがいま、訪日客に人気。外国人が参加する “スナックツアー” も催されている。主催しているのはオンラインスナック横丁文化株式会社 代表の五十嵐真由子さん。約10年で900軒近くのスナックを訪れたという強者だ。五十嵐さんはコロナ禍で打撃を受けたスナック業界を元気にしたいと、WEBサイト「オンラインスナック横丁」を立ち上げ、いまでは世界90以上のスナックが加盟する国内最大級のプラットフォームとなっている。そんなスナック女子、五十嵐さんに訪日客のスナック人気について聞いてみた。
外国人スナックツアーを始めたきっかけは？「2022年10月頃から徐々にインバウンドのお客さんが戻ってきました。その頃、オンラインスナック横丁に外国の方が参加することが複数回あり、外国の方もスナックに興味があることを知りました」。スナックのどこに惹かれるのでしょうか。「ある外国の方に尋ねると、ディープな日本が楽しめそうだと。あと映画『すずめの戸締まり』やゲーム『龍が如く』にもスナックがでてくる。行ってみたいけどガイドブックには載っていない。そうして検索するうちにスナック横丁に辿り着いたという方もいらっしゃいました」。スナック横丁が運営するスナックメディア「スナックへいらっしゃい」は英・中・西の言語に対応していますよね 。「私どもの取り組みは、女性にも入りやすいスナックカルチャーをつくるというもの。そうしてスナックを活性化させ、そこにある文化を継承し、広める。その先にはインバウンドの外国人客というターゲットがあります」。

Joining a snack bar tour for foreigners reveals Japan’s deeper charm.

Push open the heavy door to a dimly lit space where regulars chat with the “mama” across the counter.
Foreign visitors, captivated by the Showa-era vibe, tour these spots.

Snack bars have become a hit with inbound tourists, with dedicated tours hosted by Mayuko Igarashi, CEO of Online Snack Yokocho Corporation. A seasoned expert who has visited nearly 900 snack bars over the past decade, Igarashi launched “Online Snack Yokocho” to revitalize the pandemic-stricken industry. Now one of Japan’s largest platforms, it boasts over 90 affiliated snack bars worldwide. We spoke with her about the growing appeal of snack bars among foreign visitors.　What inspired you to start the foreigner-friendly snack bar tours? “In October 2022, as inbound tourism began to recover, several foreign guests participated in Online Snack Yokocho events, revealing their interest in snack bars.” What attracts them to snack bars? “One foreign guest mentioned a desire to experience a deeper side of Japan. Additionally, snack bars featured in the movie Suzume no Tojimari and the game Yakuza (Ryu ga Gotoku) piqued their curiosity. Since these establishments aren’t typically listed in guidebooks, some discovered Snack Yokocho through online searches.” Come to the Snack bar offers support in English, Chinese, and Spanish, right? “Our goal is to create a snack bar culture that is welcoming to women, revitalize the industry, preserve its traditions, and spread its appeal. Ultimately, our target includes inbound foreign tourists.”

Could you tell us about the actual tours? “We run snack bar tours for foreigners at six locations in Tokyo. One itinerary include walking through Ginza, exploring its back alleys, and visiting a snack bar in Shimbashi.” Are there regulars who dislike the presence of foreign guests? “To prevent that, we start by explaining about snack bar culture with a kamishibai (picture story) presentation. Since the mama runs the bar, her approval ensures regulars follow suit. We’ve had no issues.” A wonderful rapport often develops among the mama, regulars, and foreign guests. “Snack time lasts about two hours, during which guests bond with regulars by pouring drinks for each other, singing karaoke, and sometimes wrapping ties around their heads—all part of a unique experience.” That sounds like so much fun. “The snack bar mama is a hospitality professional, so even foreign guests leave satisfied. I have a lovely story to share. During one tour, a foreign guest happened to have a birthday. The mama secretly arranged a whole cake, and everyone sang ‘Happy Birthday’ together. The guest, moved to tears, exclaimed, ‘We may only ever come here once, but who are you people to treat us this way?’ Such heartfelt connections are rare to experience abroad.” Snack bars, encapsulating Japan’s unique charm, are helping more and more foreign visitors fall in love with the country. Inbound tourism does great things in such places.